Special Update: After nearly 1.5 years of anticipation, our 12 page feature spread in BHG’s Do It Yourself magazine is finally out!
Keep an eye out for the Winter 2015 edition on newsstands now. Or preview the digital edition here.
Now back to story time…
I descended into Bangkok on a Wednesday afternoon, thankful that I splurged on the extra $100 for a 45 minute flight instead of a ten hour bus ride from Siem Reap. It was a clear day and I was excited to be back in Thailand, meeting a couple of my friends from back home for a few days before heading to the Philippines.
The immigrations process was dreadfully long but familiar, a far cry from the sheer confusion I experienced for the first time three months ago. I stepped out onto the same curb, stood in the same taxi line, and felt much more confident knowing the drill this time around.
Finally, over two hours after landing, I arrived to my hostel just off Khao San Road (the largest backpacker hub in Southeast Asia) and met my friends whom I hadn’t seen since April. I had decided not to stay in this part of town when I began my journey to avoid the overwhelming party scene, but my friends were on vacation and wanted to experience it all… so here we were.
We walked the infamous street, sampling pad thai and scorpion on a stick, buying touristy $3 shorts and $1 earrings. If you want cute clothes at unbeatable prices, this is the place to be. I stocked up on Christmas gifts and got a SIM card for my phone at one of the many 7/11’s before returning to our hostel to get ready for the night.
The night on KSR was pretty much exactly what you’d expect. We met new friends at the hostel and went for dinner and drinks while enjoying some of the best people watching in the world. Then we found the highest rated rooftop bar in the city, caught a cab there and spent all of 20 minutes seeing how the other half lives while watching fireworks over the city.
The main reason I returned to Thailand was to visit an elephant sanctuary which I hadn’t had the chance to do back in Chiang Mai. I found a reputable place a couple hours outside of the city and booked a hotel room in the town of Kanchanburi.
My friends had never traveled before and unfortunately, Asia was not agreeing with their bodies. They became sick—one violently ill—walking around the street with barf bags as we tried to figure out how to get on the correct train. You’d think in the most touristy/visited part of SE Asia, transportation would be the easiest, but the opposite is true. The taxi drivers don’t speak any English, and when you tell them a (popular) location and show them the GPS on your phone, they look at you like you are crazy. It’s as if they’ve never seen a map before, and of course there are no maps in the cab for you to point to your destination. It took us several attempts to find one who knew where a major train station was, and we ended up at the wrong place. Two cabs later and we finally found it but missed our train, my poor friend still clutching her puke bag while we shuffled her around the city. Eventually we made it to a bus station and approximately five hours after leaving, we arrived in Kanchanburi.
There’s not much to say about Kanchanburi as we were only there one short evening (aside from this interesting cemetery we drove by…)
But don’t go there for the night life. The town consists of one small street with a few restaurants and even fewer people. It took us over two hours to get our dinner after one place forgot to put our order in and another took nearly an hour and gave us the wrong order. We ended up getting street food instead at 10pm and delivering soup to our sick friend who continued to throw up all night and into the morning.
Forty minutes northwest of town lies Elephants World, an elephant sanctuary for abused, sick and old elephants that have been rescued across the country. Many people visualize riding elephants when they think of Thailand, but all it takes is one quick Google search to learn how harmful it is to them and that it’s a real form of animal abuse. These are working elephants whose backs can’t handle the weight, and they’re forced into submission day after day by trainers, sometimes drugged and often kept in poor living conditions. I’ve seen unknowing tourists riding elephants many times on this trip and it always saddens and frustrates me to know that so many are unaware or just don’t care about this problem.
There are plenty of sanctuaries in the area and after researching, I chose Elephants World due to its close proximity to Bangkok and positive reviews. And what a special day it was. First we were assigned an elephant, Pan Aum, the oldest female in the group at 79 years old. We fed her squash and watermelon and corn and loved on her.
We went out into the field and picked ripe corn husks for their snacks, and chopped pumpkins and cooked sticky rice for the older elephants with no teeth.
We took them on walks and took photos as they participated in their favorite time of day—bath time. The two babies absolutely loved this part.
Lunch was a buffet of some of the best Thai food I’ve ever had. I ate two giant plates as we chatted with the volunteers about their lives and the elephants’. Then it was back to work, rolling our sticky rice into balls and hand feeding the eldest toothless elephants.
The day ended at the river, where the elephants were bathed as they played in the water. We were invited to help out, and the mahouts sat us on their necks (it can handle more weight and doesn’t hurt the elephants) and called out instructions as they rolled around and submerged us into the water (turns out the elephants speak Thai).
It was such a great experience and went by all too fast. My friends said that this was worth the trip to Asia alone, and that it would be the highlight of their visit here. We left with happy hearts, knowing we had the opportunity to help these giant mammals in some small way and contribute to their health and happiness while supporting a great cause.
After another long process of transferring between bus stations and vans and cabs, we were finally back in Bangkok five hours later, parked in the worst traffic I’ve ever seen. Eventually we exited the cab and ended up walking nearly a mile to our hostel, carrying 25kg of luggage on my back. As we were approaching our destination, the streets began to look familiar—and then it dawned on me—this was the same hostel I stayed in my first night here in Bangkok. The name had looked familiar but I didn’t realize why until now.
It’s hard to put into words the feeling I felt, standing in the exact same spot I first stood in three months ago. One of those events in life where time catches up with you in a serendipitous moment as if someone had just pressed pause. It wasn’t happy or sad, bad or good—just powerful. Bittersweet. Three months ago I had no idea what I was in for or how much my life was about to change. Part of me wants to go back and relive it all over again, these best few months of my life that will never happen again. But sometimes reflecting is even better than actually living it, and I am thankful to have these images and words to capture it all so I’ll never forget.
Saturday morning I said goodbye to my friends, checked out of my hostel and walked down the same street I first traveled down, confused and lost, sweaty and in search of a SIM card. Now I see the city with very different eyes, confidently walking with my bags filled to the brim with a new wardrobe and gifts, not worrying about losing my way or not being able to communicate with anyone. I’m stronger and braver, tanner and rougher around the edges with bruises, scars, bug bites and signs of aging sure to come, and probably some days taken out of my life, but all so worth it. It’s not about the days in your life but the life in your days, and I’ve lived more these past three months than in my past three years. Maybe six years, or even ten years. I came from an empty and lost place with nothing to lose, and while I still have no idea where I’m going and may just be a wanderer forever, my heart is full. If it all ends now for me, it was worth it.
These are the thoughts that repeated through my mind as I navigated Bangkok’s subway system like a pro, arriving to my terminal just in time… to find out my flight had been delayed for over seven hours. Fortunately, Kuwait Airlines put me up in a swanky hotel at no cost where I feasted on a buffet of sushi, fine French cheeses, oysters, macarons and chocolate mousse, caught up on work and dozed off in a plush air conditioned room before being chauffeured to my new flight. Coming from dirty, stuffy and noisy $5/night hostels to this is nothing short of heaven. The layover alone was worth the cost of the plane ticket. Kuwait Airlines, you are my new best friend.
I landed in Manila at 12:20am, which is where my next story begins. I know I’ve said I’ve fallen in love with places and people before… but this? These days were something else. I’m currently on a four hour bus ride back into Manila to catch a flight to Palawan this evening, where hopefully I’ll have some time to process and reflect on these past few days. I can’t wait to share this beautiful country—the amazing people of this country, with you. Coming soon.
Ned says
Jenna, you mention getting a SIM card for your iPhone in Thailand. What’s the story there? I have a Verizon phone in the USA and am traveling to Thailand in January. I’m wondering how easy it is to have a working phone over there. Thanks for any advice you can give!
jennasuedesign says
Hi Ned, your phone has to be unlocked (ie not under contract) before you can use a different SIM card. There are companies online (ebay) who will do that. SIM cards are found everywhere in SE Asia, very inexpensive and they will install them for you and set you up with a service plan. Hope this helps!
Ned says
Definitely Helpful. Thanks!
Hayley says
Hi Jenna from Australia!
I just wanted to let you know that I have really enjoyed reading about your travels. Thank you for sharing your adventures and your beautiful writing style. You have truly opened my eyes to what is possible should you stray “off the beaten track”.
I really look forward to seeing what you do in the future.
All the best,
Hayley. x 🙂
Sara says
Haven’t heard from you in a long time!! Everything ok? Miss seeing your posts!!!
Carol Eichert says
Hey Jenna! As I leave your wonderful home this week I want to thank you for allowing me to witness the work and love you have put into it. I will so miss the view of the stars at night. Biscuit and Susie await your return. Step back into your life here and continue your journey!
Shauna says
Hey Jenna, just wanted to post at least once to thank you for taking me on this incredible tour. The visual, geographical one, the cultural and social one, and the emotional and identity-growing one.
It’s a selfless act to make this phase of your life available to perfect strangers, so yes, thanks for sharing. We can all learn from this.
I truly hope your return to the States goes smoothly and bears beneficial fruits from this voyage!
jennasuedesign says
Thank you, Shauna <3
Vanessa says
I’ve always loved elephants, thanks for posting all of these pictures Jenna. Beuatiful as ever.
Sherri says
Another amazing and interesting post. I was wondering how you feel about the spread in the DIY magazine? Does it seem like a lifetime ago and does it bring any feelings of sadness that this is a part of your past? Or is it a good memory that you are glad you experienced but you are in such a better place that it’s hard to imagine doing it again? Life is a collection of so many experiences, but in the end, it is part of the growing and learning process that makes us who we are.
jennasuedesign says
Hi Sherri! It does seem like a lifetime ago and there are no sad or negative feelings. I’m happy to have that stage in my life documented. My grieving process is over and I’m in a much better place so I can only look forward. 🙂
Brooke says
Your comments about the tourists riding on the back of elephants is so painfully true, those poor elephants. I’ve also wondered how you’ve dealt with the fact that several of the SE Asian countries you’ve been to have a very cruel and inhumane dog and cat trade. There are many people trying to change it in SE Asia but it’s very prevalent in Vietnam and Laos. Did you see any of it? If so, how did you deal with it? It’s very cruel. The dogs are stolen or strays are taken, no food or water for days, stuffed into crates, burned alive by torches or clubbed in front of the people who pick them out for dinner! Ugh. It’s so sad! I’ve been to several third world countries but I hesitate going to Asia because I don’t know if I’d be able to handle seeing any of this!
jennasuedesign says
I know, it’s horrible and even more horrible that there’s nothing we can really do about it as it’s looked at as just part of their culture. I touched on it briefly back in my Hanoi post after I saw a cooked dog carcass on the street and the locals told me horrendous stories of how they are killed. I haven’t witnessed anything personally, but some of my friends have seen dogs piled in trucks being transported clearly for one reason. I don’t think I could handle watching that. It’s strange–most people practically worship their pet dogs, yet there’s so many homeless ones roaming the streets and they don’t matter for some reason. They can’t be bothered to spay/neuter them so the problem will persist.
Michelle says
Looking closely, I’m pretty sure I see gratitude for you in the soulful eyes of the elephants you cared for. I’m so glad you were able to experience their wisdom and joy! I can only hope to do the same one day. Thank you for transporting me if only for a few minutes, to what had to be a thrilling experience!
Susan says
As an avid animal lover, you have lived out one of my dreams. I want to go to an elephant sacntuary one day too! I have never seen such a smile on your face in any picture you’ve ever posted. Can’t wait for your next post.
R says
Oh my gosh, I LOVE the elephant photos. That is such a special experience and I enjoyed reading about it. I’m always brought to tears when I read about ivory poaching. I’m glad there are sanctuaries for these amazing animals.
Mindy says
My brother in law is Filipino. He and my sister got engaged there fifteen years ago, and are going back this December. I’m looking forward to seeing it through your eyes.
Mara says
You say sitting on the elephants hurt their back, yet while you’re sitting on the base of its neck, the local is sitting on its back?! Maybe you should have left that picture out, because now I don’t believe a single word in this post!
jennasuedesign says
They are fine with the weight of the mahouts who are small and ride them only during short walks to eat and/or bathe, and while they are out of the water they ride on their necks and not their backs. When they’re in the water the weight isn’t as strong. I was wondering about that too and confirmed it with the staff there. What they can’t handle are the platforms they strap to their backs and pile on 3-4 people for hours at a time.